The first Jerusalem and the City of David:

The Top of the Hill

 

(Suggestion: For background, read The first Jerusalem and the City of David: Historical Geography.)

 

An aerial overview of the original Jerusalem, looking WNWThe photo on the right provides an overview of the areas we shall be visiting. We find the entrance to the original Jerusalem across from the parking lot south of the Dung Gate. This lot sits on the dung and garbage which, during the millennia, largely filled the valley later known to Josephus as the Tyropoeon or Cheesemakers. In crossing the street toward the first city, we are probably crossing the line of its western wall.  

To our left, after entering, is the opening of a cistern. Nothing rules out the possibility that this is the cistern into which Jeremiah was lowered.

After paying the entrance fee, we go east through a gate. Standing in the area of the citadel (see photo, right), we gaze at the steep drop to the Kidron Valley. Across from us rises the southern extension of the Mount of Olives.

 

This southern part of Olivet is called the Hill of Offense, because of a legend that upon it King Solomon erected altars to the gods of his thousand pagan wives. On its steep slope today is the Arab village of Silwan, whose houses seem stacked on one another. The impression is like the one that Jerusalem itself must have offered  3000 years ago, when the houses hung thus on the slope beneath us.

We can spot the location of the Gihon, the only year-round spring in the area, today at the bottom of the hill. In antiquity, however, the Kidron Valley was deeper, and the Gihon was on the slope. Producing enough water for 2500 people, this spring made the city possible, but we can see that the inhabitants would have had a problem reaching it in times of siege. An enemy could stand on the other side of the narrow valley, where Silwan is today, and shoot arrows at anyone fetching water. We shall see how the early Jerusalemites solved this problem.

(In the time of the First Temple, the hill where Silwan is today was honeycombed with cave-tombs hewn into the rock. Most of them are hidden by the houses today. To judge from the workmanship, these were the tombs of the upper classes. The people of ancient Jerusalem lived facing their eminent dead.)

Apart from the water problem, the first city had another major vulnerability. This was where we stand, on its northern end, because here alone no deep valley protected it. There was probably a citadel here. The archaeologists found stone walls in the form of cubes, with dirt and smaller stones packed between them. These broadened the ridge at this point, probably to provide a base for the fortress. (And perhaps for the palace as well: the proto-aeolic capital of a pillar was found in this area; such capitals are found in palaces of the First Temple period.)

 

Descending a staircase southward, we can see some of these cubes. The path gives us the option of cutting back to the north. Taking it, we turn west and see part of a massive, curved "stepped-stone structure." It is sixty feet from top to bottom.

 

 

Clearly, there would have been no need to undertake such a huge construction after Jerusalem expanded, that is, after Solomon built the Temple, whose retaining walls would have defended the city farther to the north. The terrace and the later stepped-stone structure must have preceded Solomon, but who built them?

Archaeological dating is difficult in this earliest Jerusalem, for these reasons:  

a) The slopes are so steep that ancient builders either re-used existing structures or cut back to bedrock, dumping earlier remains, so that little could be found in situ.

b) Part of the hill was used as a quarry, probably in the Roman period.

c) Much of it was explored by 19th-century archaeologists. The importance of broken pottery for dating had not yet been discovered. They threw away the sherds they found.

The last major dig in this area, called Area G, was directed by Yigal Shiloh from 1978 until 1985. In his interim report (Shiloh 19, p. 17), Shiloh wrote that "considerable effort was spent in this area in locating undisturbed layers and fragments of fill directly related to the stepped stone structure. Several such patches were indeed located and the associated pottery included clear examples from Stratum 14, of the 10th century BCE." That would make the structure Davidic or Solomonic (pre-Temple). Yet some archaeologists question this conclusion; they take the retaining walls and the stepped-stone structure as a single unit which they date to the Late Bronze Age.

After Solomon erected the Temple, the citadel was no longer crucial at this spot, and people built houses on and into the stepped-stone structure. Standing on the tourist path, looking west, we can see the remains of a few from the 7th century BC. To the left are two squared monolithic pillars. They belonged to the west side of a house of about 8 by 12 meters. (The archaeologists pulled down the remains of the east side in order to explore the continuation of the stepped-stone structure.) This house, Shiloh noted, was better built, its ashlars more finely chiseled, than the houses he found in a residential area to the south. Just south of the pillars is part of a staircase that probably led up to the next terrace, which has since disappeared. Just north of the pillars the diggers found the remains of three service rooms, one containing 37 (!) storage jars from the 7th century BC, roughly the time of Jeremiah. Another small room had a stone, still visible, which is shaped for sitting. There is a hole in its center, and beneath it is a pit about eight feet deep: surely a toilet. Ostraca (inscribed potsherds) were also found in the house, written in a Hebrew script typical for Jeremiah's time. One contains the name "Ahiel," which modern scholars have used in order to designate this villa.

About 5 yards to the right (north) of Ahiel's house, there is part of a second staircase adjoining the wall of another structure. (Not shown here.) Archaeologists call this "the burnt room," for they found many lumps of carbonized wood in it. These included finely worked pieces of boxwood (not native) with motifs such as the palmette, also known from the ivories of this time. Mixed among the pottery sherds were arrowheads of bronze and iron. The impression is one of battle and fire, and to this we can relate the destruction by the Babylonians in 586 BC, as told in 2 Kings 25:8-9:

Now on the seventh day of the fifth month, which was the nineteenth year of King Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, Nebuzaradan the captain of the guard, a servant of the king of Babylon, came to Jerusalem. He burned the house of the Lord, the king's house, and all the houses of Jerusalem; even every great house he burned with fire.

East of Ahiel's, beneath the path we stand on, the diggers discovered another burnt house with arrowheads from that day… and more: 51 bullae, that is, clay seals from the letters received by the person who lived in this dwelling. The fire had burned the letters and baked the seals. These contain names, including Yerahmiel son of the King, Benyahu son of Hosea, and Gemariah the son of Shaphan. The last was the royal scribe in the days of King Jehoiakim and the prophet Jeremiah (36: 9-12).

(The seal of Baruch the son of Neriah, Jeremiah's own scribe, was also found, but in an unofficial dig, so we are not sure where. It can be seen in the Inscriptions Room of the Israel Museum.)

Forty-eight years after the Babylonian destruction, the edict of Cyrus allowed the exiles to return and rebuild the Temple. Under Nehemiah (Chs. 1-6), the city wall too was rebuilt, although it enclosed a much smaller area than before the Babylonian destruction. Note the corner of an inset in the wall above us (No. 3 in the photographs above). The British archaeologist, Kathleen Kenyon, dug here from 1961 until 1967, and beneath this inset she found sherds from the time of the Babylonian invasion, no later. She identified the wall, therefore, as Nehemiah's work, designed for a very small city. Later the Hasmoneans incorporated it into their city wall. Most Jerusalemites in their day lived on the larger hill to the west; there was no need then to build houses on the steep slope below us, and so the wall could run this high up near the spine of the ridge.

We shall now head downhill to see how the people of the first Jerusalem defended their water supply.  

 

The first Jerusalem and the City of David:

Historical geography

Top of the hill

Earliest water system

Hezekiah's tunnel and the Pool of Siloam

Who shall ascend the hill of the Lord?

Logistics for a visit

 

Development of ancient Jerusalem:

 

Jerusalem: An Introduction

Gethsemane

View from the Mt. of Olives

Jerusalem from Solomon to Herod

Jesus' entry into Jerusalem

The Cemeteries, the Golden Gate and Judgment Day

Dominus Flevit ("The Lord weeps")

 

© 2003 Near East Tourist Agency (NET)

Text © 2003 Stephen Langfur 

Scripture taken from the NEW AMERICAN STANDARD BIBLE(r),
  (c) Copyright 1960, 1962, 1963, 1968, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1975, 1977, 1995 by
  The Lockman Foundation. Used by permission. (www.Lockman.org)

 

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